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Captivated by him, and by a palpable feeling that cutlery had clattered through the ages in this room (the cheese trolley looked as though it had seen action in the Crimea), we took so long over lunch that we left scarcely any time to digest it all before heading to the spa for our late-afternoon massages.

In fact I had a horrible feeling that when the masseuse started on my abdominal muscles, she might have been able to identify Richard Vine's shoots. The spa, at the back of a charming walled garden, opened only last November, and is incredibly swanky, very hi-tech and minimalist without looking like a Swiss sanatorium, as these places can.

A wealthy Bristolian called James Wallis built the central part of the house with the fortune he made from importing 7,000lb of tobacco from Virginia to England in 1680, and I rather hoped to spot his ghost puffing away in defiance of the hotel's strict no-smoking policy.

Of the many reasons to go to Lucknam, not a few involve physical exertion – its 500 acres of spectacular grounds offer wonderful walks, and there is a widely admired equestrian centre.

Incessant travelling can do much for the soul, but sometimes little for precision memory."Peach, lychees, apricot, it is, as you say in England, top banana," he enthused about our choice of white wine.And when we selected a glass each of dessert wine he bounced over like Tigger to explain that it came from "shrinkled grapes".In these cash-strapped times, businesses are making the most of what they've got and the "restaurant with rooms" concept is thriving.Before posh-nosh pubs were the norm, a restaurant with rooms was simply a place for travellers to rest their road-weary, ale-heavy heads.

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